These two castles have faced each other across the Norova river for centuries. A very fitting tension of east and west. The European Union/Russian federation border runs along that river today, with one castle in capitalist western democratic Estonia, and the other in whatever you would call Putin's neo-imperialist Russia. The tension is palpable. The Russians destroyed the Estonian city and settled it with ethnic russians who are now pragmatically Estonian Eu citizens with ambivalent loyalties. This was one of the most depressing cities i have ever seen