Hayastan

There are fewer countries i have had more conflicting experiences with than here in Armenia. A sad country, poor and rich, beautiful. I have met the most hospitable people i have yet met on earth, and some of the most conniving too. In Kazbegi Georgia last week we met a german woman who has motorcycled all over the third world meeting people, living with them, and she is a confirmed humanist, a believer that all people are good. She has never had trouble in all her time motorcycling around the world as a single woman. And i must tell you my experiences in the caucasus so far have mostly been similar. Yet today in Sevan, on the shores of Lake Sevan, it is a city used to tourists. People are used to being able to make a living by taking advantage of others, and we had to really fight to keep from being ripped off, and we weren't able to relax or trust at all. It reminds me of animals. Animals that have never had contact with humans before are usually pretty tame and friendly. When they start getting fed, they get aggressive and lazy. Maybe its the same way with people. We are generally friendly and hospitable, but once we learn we can get an easy meal out of taking advantage of someone, all the greed and laziness lurking in the human heart comes to the surface....

What do you guys think?

PS- if you ever want a city with an amazing cafe culture- where beautiful young people of all sorts hang out enjoying the pleasantly warm evenings all night long in a city of 3000 cafes- come to Yerevan, Armenia

PPS- i have a hundred storeis to tell about the caucasus later- if you have ever thought of coming here, please do!